Day 6 and 7 - Goodbye Poland, Hello Prague
The train ride from Krakow to Prague was supposed to be about 8 hours. Well, what ever works like it is supposed to? First, we were on the right, but wrong train. Apparently there are 2 trains that run between Krakow and Katovice (our connection to Prague) at roughly the same time. The one we got one was apparently not covered by our Eurail Pass. It was about 45 minutes late and arrived at the time the train we needed did. Oh well. We made our connection, and some 11 1/2 hours later we roll into Prague (remember those floods I mentioned earlier? Huge delays across the entire rail system). The whole trip wasn't a wash - I did have the single best meal I'd ever had on a train. Chicken Schnitzel, roasted potatoes, cabbage, potato soup, rye bread, and chocolate crepes. All for $18.
The Polish and Czech countryside are absolutely beautiful. Both have rolling hills covered with lush grass and dotted with fields of grain and yellow mustard or flax. It looks like something you'd see on a postcard. But, it isn't hard to see the difference in wealth between Poland and the Czech Republic. As soon as you cross the border you can see it in the houses, cars, signs, train stations, and the people. Everything looks newer, neater, cleaner, and more finished. Not that Poland was bad or the Czech Republic is better (but it can be said that the Czech's didn't suffer under communism like the Poles did). It's two different views of post-Soviet Eastern Europe, and that helps one see how this part of the world is transforming and what it can become (especially so for me at at least, especially after seeing how Bulgaria is changing).
Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I've been to Paris and spent a lot of time there, and I can safely say that Prague is nearly as pretty. It's a different type of city - a big, urban metropolis, but life still moves a bit slower. That, and the people don't actually aim their Skoda at you when you're in a crosswalk.
Our first night here, we wandered around by the hotel and found a little Pizzeria, and then it was pretty much off to bed. The next morning found us having breakfast in the downstairs restaurant, and heading off to the Charles Bridge and Old Town. The Charles Bridge is stunning - the Gothic towers on either end make you feel like you've been transported back in time when you pass under the arches and onto the bridge. A short walk across it (stopping at the many shops operating along the way) lands you in Old Town, the historic center of Prague. This is where this beautiful city transforms into something Magical. The streets are covered with large, old cobblestones while the buildings are close together and hide the view around the next corner. As you walk through the streets, it's impossible to tell what is ahead - but once you see it, it will make you stop and notice. I found myself tripping over things because of the constant staring upward - it's hard not to! Once you make it onto the square, the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn dominates the view. The towers and spires are set off against the red roofs found on of most of the buildings.
After bumming around for a couple of hours, food became a priority. We found a really good Czech restaurant about a street off the square. The food was incredible - the Stuffed Peppers were the 2nd best I'd ever had, next to my Bulgarian friend Anna Stoev's. We found some little shop selling these round rolling sweet-bread things called Trdelnik, which were very tasty. After dinner, the students and Ms. McCracken went to see a Marionette theatre production of Don Giovanni while Bill and I went back to the hotel to do laundry. Which ended up being him sleeping and me doing laundry (I didn't do any of his, so there). A few clean socks later, and we're back at Old Town, taking in the night scenery and gawking at the now lighted Prague Castle. On the way back to the apartment, we took right tram in the wrong direction. We finally figured out a place to get off of it, and after some creepy moments and a few fights with the Death Escalators from Hell (seriously folks - these escalators, some Soviet Russian made death traps/torture weapons, ran probably 10mph. WAAAAAAAAAY too fast) we finally found our way home.
The next morning after a much-needed sleep-in, we headed to Prague Castle. In the rain. And wind. And cold. This of course, made everyone, including yours truly, cranky. The Castle was pretty cool - but sort of a letdown. Parts were under renovation so we couldn't see them, and the ticket price was too high at around $30USD or so. The St. Vitus Cathedral located inside the Castle complex did not disappoint. Out of all the Gothic Cathedrals and Churches I've seen, this is the most ornate. The stained glass, although newer, is the best in any church in the world. The Czech talents at woodcarvings are shown here with a large carved mural depicting the history of the Church and the life of Jesus. After leaving, we went back to the hotel to de-thaw and warm up. Later that evening, we went to Old Town again to launch a very successful search for Street Food. We found meat in tube form in several flavors, and sampled a couple of Czech-style Klobasa's, along with some "Jacketed Potatoes" (potatoes cooked with cabbage and ham) and some of the Old Prague Ham by itself. We also managed to find a Creperie to quench the sweet-tooth. A quick tram-ride to the Hotel, and it was off to bed.
